Why sea forts
fascinate me
I was on a motorbike. Riding along the Konkan coast, somewhere between Ratnagiri and Sindhudurg, when I saw it — a broken wall rising out of the sea. No signboard. No fence. No tourist bus in sight. Just a ruin, and the sound of waves, and the slow realisation that I was standing at the edge of a story nobody had told me.
That was the moment this series began. Not in a library, not with a plan — but with a motorbike, an open coast, and a question I couldn't stop asking: Who built this? And why does nobody know?
Over the next four years, I went back again and again. I rode the Konkan, the Malabar, the Coromandel. I climbed walls held together by little more than salt and stubbornness. I read treaties and trade records. I talked to locals who had grown up in the shadow of these forts without knowing what they were.
What I found was not just architecture. It was the entire shape of Indian history — the Arabs, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British, the Marathas, the Siddhis — all of it written in stone along a coastline most Indians have never really looked at.
This series is my attempt to change that. One fort at a time.
What is
a sea fort?
A sea fort is a coastal fortification built specifically to control the sea — not just to defend land, but to command trade routes, monitor incoming ships, and project naval power. They are fundamentally different from the hill forts and plateau forts of the interior.
A hill fort like Raigad or Chittorgarh was built for land warfare — high walls, difficult terrain, a refuge of last resort. A sea fort was built for economics. Its position was chosen not for natural defensibility, but for visibility: could you see an incoming ship from here? Could your cannons reach it?
Three types of coastal fortifications appear across Indian history:
Why they
mattered
India's 5,600 km coastline was not a boundary. It was a highway. For centuries before the British arrived, the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal were the most important trade routes in the world — and whoever controlled the coastline controlled the trade.
The Arabs dominated the Indian seas from the 6th century, running spice and textile trade with extraordinary efficiency. When Vasco da Gama arrived in 1498 and the Portuguese entered the picture, the stakes changed entirely. What followed was not just commerce — it was a two-hundred-year scramble for coastal control involving the Portuguese, Dutch, Danes, British, Marathas, Siddhis, Mughals, and dozens of smaller kingdoms.
Every fort along this coast was a response to that scramble. They served as trade checkpoints (tax incoming and outgoing vessels), naval bases (launch attacks, repair ships), diplomatic strongholds (treaties were signed, prisoners kept), and early warning systems (a cannon shot from Khanderi could be heard in Alibaug).
The west coast has 130+ coastal forts. The east coast has just 21. That imbalance tells the whole story: the Arabian Sea was the contested frontier, the Bay of Bengal a secondary theatre. The Portuguese, Dutch and British all came from the west. The Marathas fought them here. The forts rose where the fighting was.
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Coming SoonMandaviFortified port · Gujarat SultansAn important ancient trade port, now lost to time. No significant remains survive.
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Coming SoonBeyt DwarkaIsland fortress · 13th centuryBuilt by the Hindu kings of Dwarka at the mouth of the Gulf of Kutch. Several temples survive on the island.
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Coming SoonDwarkaTemple fortification · 15th centuryThe sacred city of Lord Krishna, originally fortified by Hindu kings. One wall and a bastion still stand.
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Coming SoonPorbandarFortified city · Gandhi's birthplaceOnce an important Arab trading port. Only a gate survives in the main plaza today.
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Coming SoonSomnathTemple fort · Jyotirlinga siteFortified to protect the sacred Shiva temple. Some original fortification remains around the current temple complex.
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Coming SoonPraça de DiuPortuguese · 16th century · Diu IslandSurrounded by the Arabian Sea on three sides. Site of the 1538 siege by 20,000 Turkish soldiers. One of the best-preserved Portuguese forts in India — three gates, cannons, a lighthouse, and three colonial churches.
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Coming SoonMoti Daman FortPortuguese · 16th century · DamanThe larger of Daman's two forts, built by the Portuguese to protect their trade on the Gujarat coastline. Unusually well-preserved colonial architecture.
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Coming SoonNani Daman FortPortuguese · 16th century · DamanThe smaller but characterful fort of Daman — "Nani" means small in Gujarati, but this fort punched well above its size in strategic importance.
- Coming SoonDahanuNorth Konkan · Palghar district
- Coming SoonTarapurPortuguese · Palghar district
- Coming SoonShirgaonCoastal outpost · Palghar
- Coming SoonArnalaIsland fort · Vasai CreekA significant island fort at the mouth of Vasai Creek — Maratha and later British control.
- Coming SoonVasai (Bassein)Portuguese · 16th centuryOne of the grandest Portuguese establishments in India — a fortified city, not just a fort. The Treaty of Bassein (1802) was signed here.
- Coming SoonGhodbunder & DharaviThane Creek · Portuguese
- Coming SoonBelapurNavi Mumbai · Portuguese-Maratha
- Coming SoonCastella de Aguada (Bandra)Portuguese · MumbaiThe fort at Bandra — now a popular landmark above Bandstand. Built by the Portuguese in the early 17th century to guard the northern sea approach to Bombay harbour.
- Coming SoonMadh FortPortuguese · Mumbai
- Coming SoonMahim FortPortuguese-Maratha · Mumbai
- Coming SoonWorli FortBritish · Mumbai
- Coming SoonFort George (Mumbai)British · The original Bombay fortThe original fortification around which the city of Bombay grew. Almost entirely demolished — the Fort district's street grid is its living remnant.
- Coming SoonSewri & MazagaonBritish · Mumbai harbour
- Coming SoonGharapuri (Elephanta)Island · Mumbai harbourBest known for its cave temples, Elephanta Island also has significant fortification history.
- Coming SoonKhanderi & UnderiMaratha · Rajapuri creekTwin island forts guarding the sea approach to the Konkan coast. Khanderi was built by Shivaji specifically to check the British and the Siddhi of Janjira.
- Coming SoonKulaba (Alibaug)Maratha · Kanhoji Angre's capitalThe famous sea fort of Alibaug, accessible by foot at low tide. Kanhoji Angre made this the capital of his coastal territory in 1698.
- Coming SoonRevdandaPortuguese · Also: Agarkot, Chaul
- Coming SoonKorlaiPortuguese · Also: Morro de ChaulOne of the most dramatically situated forts on the Konkan — a hilltop Portuguese fort overlooking the Kundalika river mouth. The view made Amit go silent.
- Coming SoonJanjiraSiddhi · Island fort · MurudThe unconquered sea fort — never taken by the Portuguese, the British, or the Marathas. The only sea fort in India that was never defeated in battle. Siddhi-built and -held for centuries.
- Coming SoonBankotAlso: Himmatgad, Fort Victoria
- Coming SoonSuvarnadurgMaratha · Harnai · "Golden Fort"A Maratha sea fort of great strategic importance — named the Golden Fort, it guarded the Harnai harbour and was a key Maratha naval base.
- Coming SoonGopalgadAlso: Anjenvel · Ratnagiri district
- Coming SoonJaigad & VijaygadTwin forts · Jaigad creek
- Coming SoonRatnadurgRatnagiri town · Maratha
- Coming SoonPurnagadRatnagiri district
- Coming SoonAmbolgad & YashwantgadSindhudurg district · Twin forts
- Coming SoonVijaydurgAlso: Gheria · Maratha naval baseOne of the most formidable Maratha forts — described by the British as impregnable. Kanhoji Angre's principal stronghold. Three lines of walls, a deep moat, and direct sea access.
- Coming SoonSindhudurgMaratha · Built by Shivaji · 1664–67Shivaji's greatest sea fort — built on a rocky island off Malvan, with walls that follow the exact contour of the rock. A Shiva temple inside houses Shivaji's handprint and footprint cast in stone.
- Coming SoonDevgadSindhudurg district
- Coming SoonKille NivtiSindhudurg district
- Coming SoonVengurla VakharAlso: Fingerla
- Coming SoonYashwantgad (Redi)Southernmost Maharashtra fort
- Coming SoonTerekhol (Tiracol)Portuguese · Northernmost Goa fortA small but perfectly preserved Portuguese fort at the mouth of the Tiracol river, now converted into a boutique heritage hotel.
- Coming SoonChaporaPortuguese-Maratha · Also: ShahapuraFamous beyond its merits thanks to Dil Chahta Hai — but the fort itself has a layered history of Bijapur, Portuguese, and Maratha control spanning four centuries.
- Coming SoonAguadaPortuguese · 1612 · Also: Fort Santa KatherinaThe most visited fort in Goa — built in 1612 as a water supply station and naval stronghold. The four-storey lighthouse (1864) is the oldest in Asia.
- Coming SoonReis MagosPortuguese · 1551 · Mandovi river
- Coming SoonMormugaoPortuguese · South Goa
- Coming SoonCabo-de-RamaPortuguese · Southernmost Goa fortNamed after Lord Rama, who is said to have rested here during his search for Sita. One of the oldest fortification sites on the coast.
- Coming SoonSadashivgadKarnataka · KarwarGuards the mouth of the Kali river at Karwar. A hilltop fort with commanding sea views — the transition point between Goa and the Karnataka coast.
- Coming SoonMirjanKarnataka · Vijayanagara periodA remarkably intact inland-coastal fort near Gokarna, built by the Vijayanagara rulers and later used by the Queen of Pepper — Chennabhairadevi.
- Coming SoonMangaloreAlso: Fort of Sao Sebastian · Portuguese
- Coming SoonChandragiriNorth Kerala · Kasargod
- Coming SoonBekalLargest fort in Kerala · 17th centuryThe largest and best-preserved fort in Kerala — a remarkable circular structure built on a headland, with a unique keyhole-shaped entrance on the seaward side.
- Coming SoonSt. Angelo (Kannur)Portuguese · 1505Built by Francisco de Almeida in 1505 — one of the earliest Portuguese forts in India. Later passed to the Dutch, then the British, then Hyder Ali's troops.
- Coming SoonTellicherry (Thalassery)British · 1708Built by the British East India Company as the nerve centre of Malabar trade. Hyder Ali conquered it in 1781; Tipu Sultan ceded it back to the British in 1792.
- Coming SoonCalicut (Kozhikode)Portuguese · No remainsWhere it all began — Vasco da Gama landed near here in 1498. The Portuguese fort is gone, demolished by the Zamorin. History with no visible marker.
- Coming SoonKodungallur (Cranganore)Portuguese · 1523Mentioned in Ramayana, Mahabharata, and the works of Ptolemy — Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Portuguese and Dutch all traded here. The fort is a ruin today, with one inscribed wall.
- Coming SoonPallippuramPortuguese · Oldest European fort in IndiaPossibly the oldest surviving European fortification in India, built by the Portuguese in 1503 at the entrance to the Vypeen Island.
- Coming SoonFort KochiPortuguese-Dutch-BritishThe fort that no longer exists — but whose legacy is the entire Fort Kochi peninsula. Vasco da Gama is buried here. The first European-built church in India stands on this ground.
- Coming SoonThangasseryBritish · Kollam
- Coming SoonAnjengoBritish · 1696 · South KeralaThe first British fort on the Malabar coast — established in 1696 for pepper trade. A small but historically significant outpost near Thiruvananthapuram.
- Coming SoonVattakottaiBritish · KanyakumariA small circular fort at the tip of India — where the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal, and the Indian Ocean meet. Built to defend the straits between India and Sri Lanka.
- Coming SoonFort St. DavidBritish · Also: Devanampatam · CuddaloreThe British fort that served as a refuge when Madras fell — Robert Clive began his military career here. Now largely vanished into the landscape.
- Coming SoonTranquebar (Tharangambadi)Danish · Also: Fort Dansborg · 1620India's only Danish fort — built in 1620 and remarkably well-preserved. The Danes are often forgotten in the story of colonial India. This fort is their only surviving chapter.
- Coming SoonPondicherry FortFrench · 17th–18th centuryThe French settlement at Pondicherry was heavily fortified — but the fort itself was razed by the British in 1761. The French quarter's grid streets are what remains.
- Coming SoonAlamparaiMughal-French · East Coast Road
- Coming SoonFort St. GeorgeBritish · 1644 · ChennaiThe fort that became a city — the first British fort in India, built in 1644. The city of Madras grew around it. Now houses the Tamil Nadu state legislature. One of the most historically significant forts in all of India.
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ExploringAndhra Coast FortsAndhra Pradesh · Bay of BengalThe east coast was less fortified than the west — only 21 forts across the entire eastern seaboard versus 130+ on the Arabian Sea side. Research and field visits ongoing.
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ExploringOdisha CoastOdisha · Bay of BengalOdisha's coastline carries the legacy of ancient Kalinga — a maritime trading empire that predates most of the forts on this list. The archaeology here is still being written.